Best quality and factory Outdoor Spot Light IP65 SMD5730 Classic 70W LED Flood Light Supply to Hamburg

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Best quality and factory Outdoor Spot Light IP65 SMD5730 Classic 70W LED Flood Light Supply to Hamburg detail pictures

Best quality and factory Outdoor Spot Light IP65 SMD5730 Classic 70W LED Flood Light Supply to Hamburg detail pictures

Best quality and factory Outdoor Spot Light IP65 SMD5730 Classic 70W LED Flood Light Supply to Hamburg detail pictures


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    Bracket fabrication: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ID-rG09eDjY
    Light bar review: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_nWuW8FTFK8
    Soldering guide: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Lo8N3tgeRSg
    Plans: http://www.4diyers.com/resources/metalwork/grilllightbar.php

    Video tutorial on how to properly wire and LED light bar. This is a wiring guide straight from scratch so you can easily install auxiliary lighting on your own project. This particular light bar was designed for a Ford Ranger and will possible fit the Mazda B Series as they share the same platform. The particular light bar used in this video is a 22” 5D LED light bar made by Auxbeam.

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    Tools/Supplies Needed:
    -wiring
    -fuse holder
    -weatherproof connectors
    -spade connectors
    -eye connectors
    -soldering iron and solder
    -heat shrink
    -wire casing
    -zip/cable ties
    -wire cutters/stripper

    Procedure:
    -install weatherproof connectors on the light bar wire and the wire meeting the night bar
    -you will need a special crimping tool in order to install these contacts
    -I already know the light draws 30 amps and based on how long the wire is, this will determine what gage wire we need to use
    -a wire gage chart is needed to determine what size wire is required, for this I am using 12 gage wire
    -before I cut the wire to length, I need to setup my secondary fuse box and relay location
    -I found a bracket just above the fender linear to mount it to
    -if you have a larger setup with multiple relays powering various lights, you may want to consider a custom made separate bracket to keep everything organized
    -making the main power wire coming from the battery to the new fuse box, for this I am using only the 12 gage wire
    -if you are powering multiple lights, you will need a much heavier gage wire, otherwise this main wire will overheat and become a hazard
    -to keep everything tidy, I am removing the plastic casing on the crimp connector and will be installing heat shrink instead
    -I am using a generic 5 pin relay which has two circuit, the circuit which is needed here is the normally open circuit
    -the pigtails were removed from the relay so I could customize everything to my liking and remove the extra unneeded wire
    -cut the wires to size which comes from the light bar
    -the red or positive wire connects to the relay and the black or ground will connect to a factory ground on the inner which I’ll show you in a moment
    -making a y’d wire which supplies power to the light on the switching side of the relay and the other which is a lower amperage side will control the coil
    -power is constant to the coil, I am setting up a different circuit than most use
    -the ground will be the switching wire for this setup
    -using adhesive filled shrink tube to seal up the soldered connection
    -the other side gets a spade connector which goes to the fuse box
    -for protective casing, here is a few different options such as heat shrink, rubber casing, and plastic casing similar to what is found on vehicles
    -installing this wire, it runs behind the grill, around the plastic diffuser, behind the headlight through the bulb cutout in the front end frame, in front of the battery, along the main harness, and to the fuse box location
    -a wire will need to be ran inside the cab , some disassembly of the dashboard will be needed
    -a hole is drilled in the firewall using a step drill, then a rubber grommet is installed and the wire is feed through
    -run the wires through to the switch, a wire is also needed for a ground
    -the switch gets the connector as well, with a short pigtail and the wire is soldered on the terminals, which is sealed up with shrink tube after
    -I used a wood spur bit to cut a hole in the dashboard, covered the surface in tape as protection and then cut the hole
    -unfortunately it needed to be slightly larges so I used an abrasive bit t open it up slightly
    -reassemble the dashboard and install the switch which just snaps into the hole
    -remove the retaining tangs on the battery terminal bolt to install the main power wire which connects to the new fuse box
    -the relay wires can be inserted back into the plug casing
    -once everything has been finalized, use some small zip ties to tie off the new wiring so it doesn’t interfere with anything and has a clean look

    Thank you to all those who watch my videos and support my content. Don’t forget to subscribe to my channel for future tutorial videos and like my video if you found it helpful. New videos are always being uploaded every week!

    © 4DIYers 2013
    All Rights Reserved
    No part of this video or any of its contents may be reproduced, copied, modified or adapted, without the prior written consent of the author.


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